I did venture into the water a bit, stopping two meters in front of the waterfall. Spray splashed my face and my feet tingled in the cold water. It was a nice way to cool down.

Most visitors had the same idea. They removed their shoes to cool their feet in the water. Children filled their toy water guns, while parents took selfies. One has to be careful. The stones here are very smooth and it's easy to lose your balance.

Before reaching Er Ji, the second waterfall, hikers pass an unusual array of rocks. Two globoid rocks about three meters high lie one on top of the other, supported by a small fulcrum. Pieces of wood or stone are used to cross streams along the route. This is not an excursion for toddlers.

The second waterfall is a 30-minute walk. One can view it from a high terrace. It's a nice spot to rest and enjoy the view before proceeding closer.

The waterfall is divided in two by a rock fold. The water spills down both sides like a white silk curtain.

It takes about 10 minutes to descend from the 85-meter terrace. There is a way to walk behind the falls, entering a cave on the other side of the water curtain.

After a rest, it's time to tackle Yi Ji, the last of the three falls. It is often called "China's No. 1 waterfall." The path to it is long and steep, but the effort is worth it.

I heard the falls before it came into view. It sounded like thunder. Upon reaching it, the view was magnificent. The force of the water cascading from the 200-meter cliff top created a heavy spray.

Another scenic spot in the scenic area is the Celestial Summit Lake, called tianding in Chinese. Clear and deep, it is located on the Nantian Mountain at the top of Yi Ji waterfall.

In the center of the lake is an island. In the morning, the lake is covered by cloud and mist, and at sunset, the reflections cast a yellow-reddish hue across the water.

Baizhangji's water may be clean, but it is not the cleanest in Wencheng. That distinction belongs to the Tongling Mountain National Forest Park. I spent some relaxing time alongside the emerald green waters, which reflect the surrounding hillside forests.

Swimming is not allowed here because the water is very deep and there are no lifeguards on duty.

Tongling Mountain is blessed with more than 10,000 hectares of broad-leafed forestland, among the best protected woodlands of their kind in Zhejiang Province.

At the park's entrance, a 500-meter, wood-plank roadway leads to forested hillsides, deep gorges, rushing streams, dense bamboo groves, wildflowers and often rare wild animals.

"Better not touch the wood handrail," advised our tour guide Liu Shouli. "Worms love lying there. And watch out when walking through the bamboo. There may be snakes."

The smog of Shanghai seemed a world away. The air here is fresh and sweetly scented by flora. I inhale deep breaths to give my lungs a rare treat. And fortunately enough, the tree canopies afford great protection from the scorching sun.

Even in summer, locals sleep under thin cotton quilts because temperatures at night cool considerably.